Knurlies are the first screws out there specially designed for eurorack. Engineered with love by Befaco to make re-arranging your case a matter of minutes!Knurlies can be fastened by hand, Phillips, slot or Allen. And brings a plastic washer already in place to avoid rack rash.These screws are M3/M2,5 x 7 mm so they can be used also on those 3 mm thick panels as well as regular 2 mm ones.Features:• 7 mm long• Phillips, slot, Allen and thumb enabled!• Flat-tight Washer to avoid rack rash.
Side Brackets 3U – 3D Printed – Standard Rails – Type A – Black• Affordable alternative to aluminum side panels• Thread strips or slide nuts can be inserted without disassembling the frame• Smoothly rounded corners provide a perfect finish to the railsImportant: This product includes only the side panels (always sold as a pair) – not rails or complete frames!To assemble, you will also need rails, M5 screws, and thread strips or slide nuts.Other manufacturers may refer to these parts as side parts, side cheeks, or side panels.With these brackets, you can easily build Eurorack frames and mount them in a DIY case.Calculate the required width as follows: rail length + 2 × 3 mm.There are different rail types on the market – these brackets are specifically designed for our Tech Creation Lab Rails.They may also be compatible with other brands, but we strongly recommend checking carefully before purchasing.If you buy all components from us, perfect compatibility is guaranteed.Standard Rails vs. Low Profile RailsThe side brackets for standard rails can also be used with low-profile rails.This results in a small overhang at the back – however, it’s not visible and therefore not an issue.Type A vs. Type BDo not mix them! Type A and Type B components are not compatible with each other.Height: 3U & 1U – What does that mean?• A standard Eurorack module has a height of 3U.• 5U refers to the larger Moog format, which is less common.• 6U means two rows of 3U each.• 1U is the smaller tile format, available in two variants: Intellijel and Pulp Logic.We focus on the Intellijel format.
Side Brackets 3U - Aluminium - Standard Rails - Type A - Black• Precisely milled edges, at which the rails sit - these make the resulting construction torsion-proof• You can insert threaded strips or slide-nuts without dismounting the frame• Super precise production• Beautifully rounded corners match the lid of the rails• Fully anodized aluminium• Made in germany, supports local economyThis is only the brackets (always one pair), NOT the rails or whole frames! You need additional rails, M5 screws and threaded strips or slide-nuts. Others might call them side-parts, side-cheecks or side-panels.Our aluminium side brackets are the best on the market! They are definitely not cheap but have some clever advantages and are very precise and made in germany!With these brackets you can easily build stable and precise Eurorack frames and mount them in your DIY case. Just take your rail length + 2x3mm and you have the resulting width of your frame.There are some different rail types on the market - these are made for the Exploding Shed rails. Might fit for others, but you should have a closer look before. We won't take scratched side brackets back! When you buy all stuff here, you are sure that all fits together in the end.Standard Rails vs. Low Profile RailsIt is possible to use the side brackets made for standard rails with low profile rails instead Then you have an overhang at the back, but who cares, as you don't see it later.Type A vs. Type BNever mix Type A with Type B stuff! That won't fit.Height: 3U & 1U - What does it mean?One normal Eurorack module is 3U in height. 5U would be the bigger Moog format, but we're mainly all Eurorack addicts here. 6U is basically 2 rows a 3U then. 1U is the smaller "tile" format which exists as Intellijel size and the less prominent Pulp Logic size. We focus on Intellijel size here.Screws vs. BracketsAll side brackets are 3mm thick. With the standard M5 countersunk screws it might happen that the transition between threading of the screw and screw head (where it's still slim) looks slightly through the bracket in direction of the rail. To make the bracket really sit 100% tight on the side of the rail, you probably have to use a countersink (drill) like this (https://www.obi.de/senker/lux-handsenker-hss-12-mm/p/4949624) or this (https://www.obi.de/senker/lux-senker-comfort-12-mm/p/5816764) to open the hole on the rail side a bit and make sure the last 1/4mm or so of the screw head can sink through the bracket into the hole of the rail itself. Then the construction will be maximum stable. You have to do that yourself.
Side Brackets 3U - Aluminium - Standard Rails - Type A - Silver• Precisely milled edges, at which the rails sit - these make the resulting construction torsion-proof• You can insert threaded strips or slide-nuts without dismounting the frame• Super precise production• Beautifully rounded corners match the lid of the rails• Fully anodized aluminium• Made in germany, supports local economyThis is only the brackets (always one pair), NOT the rails or whole frames! You need additional rails, M5 screws and threaded strips or slide-nuts. Others might call them side-parts, side-cheecks or side-panels.Our aluminium side brackets are the best on the market! They are definitely not cheap but have some clever advantages and are very precise and made in germany!With these brackets you can easily build stable and precise Eurorack frames and mount them in your DIY case. Just take your rail length + 2x3mm and you have the resulting width of your frame.There are some different rail types on the market - these are made for the Exploding Shed rails. Might fit for others, but you should have a closer look before. We won't take scratched side brackets back! When you buy all stuff here, you are sure that all fits together in the end.Standard Rails vs. Low Profile RailsIt is possible to use the side brackets made for standard rails with low profile rails instead Then you have an overhang at the back, but who cares, as you don't see it later.Type A vs. Type BNever mix Type A with Type B stuff! That won't fit.Height: 3U & 1U - What does it mean?One normal Eurorack module is 3U in height. 5U would be the bigger Moog format, but we're mainly all Eurorack addicts here. 6U is basically 2 rows a 3U then. 1U is the smaller "tile" format which exists as Intellijel size and the less prominent Pulp Logic size. We focus on Intellijel size here.Screws vs. BracketsAll side brackets are 3mm thick. With the standard M5 countersunk screws it might happen that the transition between threading of the screw and screw head (where it's still slim) looks slightly through the bracket in direction of the rail. To make the bracket really sit 100% tight on the side of the rail, you probably have to use a countersink (drill) like this (https://www.obi.de/senker/lux-handsenker-hss-12-mm/p/4949624) or this (https://www.obi.de/senker/lux-senker-comfort-12-mm/p/5816764) to open the hole on the rail side a bit and make sure the last 1/4mm or so of the screw head can sink through the bracket into the hole of the rail itself. Then the construction will be maximum stable. You have to do that yourself.
Side Brackets 3U - Aluminium - Standard Rails - Type B - Silver• Precisely milled edges, at which the rails sit - these make the resulting construction torsion-proof• You can insert threaded strips or slide-nuts without dismounting the frame• Super precise production• Types B have non-anodized edges• Made in germany, supports local economyThis is only the brackets (always one pair), NOT the rails or whole frames! You need additional rails, M5 screws and threaded strips or slide-nuts. Others might call them side-parts, side-cheecks or side-panels.Our aluminium side brackets are the best on the market! They are definitely not cheap but have some clever advantages and are very precise and made in germany!With these brackets you can easily build stable and precise Eurorack frames and mount them in your DIY case. Just take your rail length + 2x3mm and you have the resulting width of your frame.There are some different rail types on the market - these are made for the Exploding Shed rails. Might fit for others, but you should have a closer look before. We won't take scratched side brackets back! When you buy all stuff here, you are sure that all fits together in the end.Standard Rails vs. Low Profile RailsIt is possible to use the side brackets made for standard rails with low profile rails instead Then you have an overhang at the back, but who cares, as you don't see it later.Type A vs. Type BNever mix Type A with Type B stuff! That won't fit.Height: 3U & 1U - What does it mean?One normal Eurorack module is 3U in height. 5U would be the bigger Moog format, but we're mainly all Eurorack addicts here. 6U is basically 2 rows a 3U then. 1U is the smaller "tile" format which exists as Intellijel size and the less prominent Pulp Logic size. We focus on Intellijel size here.Screws vs. BracketsAll side brackets are 3mm thick. With the standard M5 countersunk screws it might happen that the transition between threading of the screw and screw head (where it's still slim) looks slightly through the bracket in direction of the rail. To make the bracket really sit 100% tight on the side of the rail, you probably have to use a countersink (drill) like this (https://www.obi.de/senker/lux-handsenker-hss-12-mm/p/4949624) or this (https://www.obi.de/senker/lux-senker-comfort-12-mm/p/5816764) to open the hole on the rail side a bit and make sure the last 1/4mm or so of the screw head can sink through the bracket into the hole of the rail itself. Then the construction will be maximum stable. You have to do that yourself.
Side Brackets 3U+1U (Intellijel) - Aluminium - Low Profile + Double Rail - Type A - Black• Gives you 3U + 1U (Intellijel)• Exclusively made for 2x Type A low profile rail + 1x double rail = only 3 rails needed! Saves cash & weight• Precisely milled edges, at which the rails sit - these make the resulting construction torsion-proof• You can insert threaded strips or slide-nuts without dismounting the frame• Super precise production• Beautifully rounded corners match the lid of the rails• Fully anodized aluminium• Made in germany, supports local economyThis is only the brackets (always one pair), NOT the rails or whole frames! You need additional rails, M5 screws and threaded strips or slide-nuts. Others might call them side-parts, side-cheecks or side-panels.Our aluminium side brackets are the best on the market! They are definitely not cheap but have some clever advantages and are very precise and made in germany!With these brackets you can easily build stable and precise Eurorack frames and mount them in your DIY case. Just take your rail length + 2x3mm and you have the resulting width of your frame.There are some different rail types on the market - these are made for the Exploding Shed rails. Might fit for others, but you should have a closer look before. We won't take scratched side brackets back! When you buy all stuff here, you are sure that all fits together in the end.Standard Rails vs. Low Profile RailsIt is possible to use the side brackets made for standard rails with low profile rails instead Then you have an overhang at the back, but who cares, as you don't see it later.Type A vs. Type BNever mix Type A with Type B stuff! That won't fit.Height: 3U & 1U - What does it mean?One normal Eurorack module is 3U in height. 5U would be the bigger Moog format, but we're mainly all Eurorack addicts here. 6U is basically 2 rows a 3U then. 1U is the smaller "tile" format which exists as Intellijel size and the less prominent Pulp Logic size. We focus on Intellijel size here.Screws vs. BracketsAll side brackets are 3mm thick. With the standard M5 countersunk screws it might happen that the transition between threading of the screw and screw head (where it's still slim) looks slightly through the bracket in direction of the rail. To make the bracket really sit 100% tight on the side of the rail, you probably have to use a countersink (drill) like this (https://www.obi.de/senker/lux-handsenker-hss-12-mm/p/4949624) or this (https://www.obi.de/senker/lux-senker-comfort-12-mm/p/5816764) to open the hole on the rail side a bit and make sure the last 1/4mm or so of the screw head can sink through the bracket into the hole of the rail itself. Then the construction will be maximum stable. You have to do that yourself.
Side Brackets 3U+3U - 3D Printed - Low Profile + Double Rail - Type A - Black• Cheap alternative for Alu side brackets• Exclusively made for 2x Type A low profile rail + 1x double rail = only 3 rails needed! Saves cash & weight• You can insert threaded strips or slide-nuts without dismounting the frame• Beautifully rounded corners match the lid of the railsBe careful, do not overtighten the screws, as this could cause the brackets to break.This is only the brackets (always one pair), NOT the rails or whole frames! You need additional rails, M5 screws and threaded strips or slide-nuts. Others might call them side-parts, side-cheecks or side-panels.With these brackets you can easily build stable and precise Eurorack frames and mount them in your DIY case. Just take your rail length + 2x3mm and you have the resulting width of your frame.There are some different rail types on the market - these are made for the Exploding Shed rails. Might fit for others, but you should have a closer look before. We won't take scratched side brackets back! When you buy all stuff here, you are sure that all fits together in the end.Standard Rails vs. Low Profile RailsIt is possible to use the side brackets made for standard rails with low profile rails instead Then you have an overhang at the back, but who cares, as you don't see it later.Type A vs. Type BNever mix Type A with Type B stuff! That won't fit.Height: 3U & 1U - What does it mean?One normal Eurorack module is 3U in height. 5U would be the bigger Moog format, but we're mainly all Eurorack addicts here. 6U is basically 2 rows of 3U. 1U is the smaller "tile" format which exists as Intellijel size and the less prominent Pulp Logic size. We focus on Intellijel size here.Screws vs. BracketsAll side brackets are 3mm thick. With the standard M5 countersunk screws it might happen that the transition between threading of the screw and screw head (where it's still slim) looks slightly through the bracket in direction of the rail. To make the bracket really sit 100% tight on the side of the rail, you probably have to use a countersink (drill) like this https://www.obi.de/senker/lux-handsenker-hss-12-mm/p/4949624 or this https://www.obi.de/senker/lux-senker-comfort-12-mm/p/5816764 to open the hole on the rail side a bit and make sure the last 1/4mm or so of the screw head can sink through the bracket into the hole of the rail itself. Then the construction will be maximum stable. You have to do that yourself.